Hi All-
I have recently returned from an incredible journey through the Middle East with colleagues, friends and my Saudi family. I spent meaningful time in multiple cities in three countries - Israel, Jordan and Saudi Arabia.
Most people don't know that I actually started my professional career in Saudi Arabia in 1999. My best friend, Rasha Al Hoshan is a Saudi woman. We met and became close during our years in graduate school at Pratt in New York and also studying abroad together. She says that we bonded over our "fundamentalist" backgrounds - mine Christian, hers Muslim. She couldn't believe the similarities between us - given the different worlds that we called home.
When we graduated, she went back to Riyadh to begin her career. Before starting my career in New York, I waited nine long months to be granted a visa to visit Rasha and her family in Saudi Arabia. When the visa was finally granted, I had a plane ticket for a 3 week trip… but instead, I stayed 6 months. We opened her design firm, acquired our first clients and began designing and constructing projects.
Almost 25 years later, it was an honor and a privilege to be welcomed back by Rasha and her family for this heart-warming excursion and reunion. I felt as though we were "timeline shifting" every day. Riyadh did not have a single skyscraper when I flew out in 1999 and neither she nor I had husbands or children. A lot has grown up since then!
For this reunion visit, we spent our days and mostly VERY LATE nights (it was Ramadan, after all) visiting museums, exhibitions and world-renowned artists' studios, as well as, historical sights and the homes of welcoming friends and family. Rasha insisted that I spend my time catching up on geo-political and cultural issues...not just "shopping and going to fancy restaurants".
The most important note about these outings is that we did them ourselves, in HER car, with our heads UNcovered, with HER DRIVING ?!?!? I kept asking “are you sure it’s ok?!”... What a change! In the 90s we spent our time hiding from the religious police and sending the driver out to get us falafel in between prayers. It was fascinating to be back in this young country, I mean, Kingdom, as it evolves so quickly.
Before joining up with Rasha in the Arab world, I spent 10 days in Israel acclimating on my own and then with the Leader's of Design Council for our annual conference. Tel Aviv won my heart and Jerusalem taught us complex political, historical and cultural lessons - all at once.
Although a little unnerving, it was thrilling to be there during the mass protests, as the people fight for government reform and to maintain their democracy. I spent afternoons in coffee shops and evenings in cafes questioning ex-pats and locals about the recent changes and the current unrest. Lively dialog was welcomed. Of course, it was also overwhelmingly moving to be in this diverse land during the simultaneous celebration of Passover, Easter, and Ramadan. Incredible.
We visited the Dead Sea from both the Israeli and Jordanian sides and giggled like children floating on its surface. I hiked Masada and Petra (7 miles in a day!); rode a camel (much to my dismay!); slept in a bubble in the Wadi Rum desert; shed pained tears at Yad Vashem; and found solace in Temples, Mosques, and Churches.
Now we have new stories and belly laughs to last for years to come (ie Rasha and I getting a flat tire in Jeddah during Ramadan fast, 100 degree heat and not another woman in sight) and enough challenging questions and intriguing discussions to send me flirting with grad-school applications. A Ph.D. should give me plenty of time to investigate all of the issues further.
Thank you for your patience while I made this voyage. I am back and recouped from my 24 hour journey home.
Here’s to being HOME —- here...and there.